Hey Jacob here I push your TV today. We’Re gon na. Do another install article of just about everything we got for the new Ford six sevens. I got 20 18 behind me. These parts are gon na fit your seventeen to nineteen trucks.

 

We also have all the kits all way down to 2011 there’s so many parts. This key, I can barely hold them all, but basically we’re gon na do our cold side and cold air intake package, which is our intake, manifold, cold side charge to cold air intake, and then the customer option Dinge a hot side as well Cisco. Ladies things out on the table, so you can see all the major components talk about them and then get started. So you have all of our major components laid out here on the bench you can see. They’Re in one of our signature, colors called titanium.

 

I love this color. It’S awesome at hiding dirt and scratches goes with pretty much any body. Color truck. It’S really a good go-to color. Let’S go through all this being the order.

The air is gon na flow through it. So, first it’s going to go through our 45 Cal air filter, as inverted cone on the end. These things are awesome. You’Ve been testing these things for ever on a lot of different applications from off-road racing to drag racing and they they’re great. I’M really happy with how these filters perform next, it’s gon na come up through the airbox.

 

This is a full 6061 airbox here, fully TIG welded. It has a nice tinted plexiglass window here, so you can keep an eye on your filter with the ghosted pusher logo. On the back, this guy is going to seal right to the top of your lower box. Then the air is going to pass through our 4-inch intake tube. Here you can see we have provisions for your factory filter minder, which again helps you keep an eye on that filter.

 

Also, a fully CNC machined MAF sensor block there that accepts your factory MAF sensor, then last but not least, is gon na hook to your charger via this heavy duty, coupler and stainless clamps, and then also this kit comes with a crankcase ventilation. Reroute kit, which is this machine adapter, to go to your factory, crankcase ducting and hose to route that for you after it goes through the charger, is going to come through your hot side charge tube here. This guy has a CNC machine around the end with an o-ring groove. So that’s going to use that your factory c-clip that you’ll see later that snaps over the charger and has an o-ring on the inside to seal to the Charter. A lot like the factory unit does and then we’re gon na connect to our intercooler with a nice heavy-duty coupler here and full stainless t-bolt clamps, a quick note.

All of our silicone couplers are rated to be run in compounds. We design them that way. All of our components are that way, then we’re going to come out of our intercooler through another heavy-duty coupler and clamps through our cold side, charge tube, which you can see, has CNC machined ports for our intake air temp sensor, as well as auxiliary eighth inch NPT Ports: eighth inch NPT thread is your most common thread for a boost gauge pick up water method, actors, nitrogen objectors out type of stuff. If you don’t have a use for these at the time of install in your hardware kit, we’re always coming a matching-number of anodized aluminum plugs to seal those guys off and keep your boost inside the tube. As your air exits, the tube you’re going to go through.

 

Another heavy-duty coupler assembly here and then what is probably my favorite piece of the whole setup is our intake manifold. This guy is awesome. It does an amazing job at splitting your air perfectly between each cylinder Bank. We form the ends to match. The inlets of the valve covers exactly and then use bow rings here to seal a lot like the factory upper manifold does so that you can take this thing on and off as many times as you want and not worry about gaskets also, we have a CNC Machine sensor, port for your map sensor, as well as a dipstick mount for your engine, oil and transmission dipstick tubes here, so that wraps up pretty much your major components we’ll go through some of the minor hardware as we do the install later.

 

Let’S get these things on the truck, so first off all of our products come with a complete set of instructions that are totally step-by-step with all the pictures all information you’ll ever need for that install this video is intended to be another tool for you give you A couple different angles of view just to help you feel comfortable and hopefully make you more efficient at doing this install so, let’s get started, I’m gon na start removing parts pretty much in the order of how the air flows through the system. So that would mean we’re going to start with our cold air. First on your cold air. You have your mass airflow sensor here, we’re just gon na unplug that there’s a little safety lock on it that little red guy slides back. It allows you to push on the little tab and pull it off back.

Here’S our filter minder we’ll mess with that later then, your lid is just secure to the lower box by four little quick snaps that releases your lid from the box or come over here. I’Ll talk about a lot these quarter inch impacts are awesome for this type of work. It makes real quickly work with the clamps that type of stuff just that one clamp there, and then we just pull this guy off so over here. The rest of the cold air that goes from here to the turbo is cast into this chunk of aluminum, as well as your cold side charge air, so we’re gon na attack this a little later, but for now let’s get this guy in our air filter. Out of the way, now you can move on to our hot side charge tube.

 

It’S secured to the intercooler via a worm, drive, clamp and then to the turbo outlet via a c-clamp. Let’S do our worm drive, clamp. First, it’s actually the same size as the cold air clamps were, which is a seven millimeter hex, so we’ll just pull that guy off the intercooler, and then I like to use two flat screwdrivers to get in here and open up the c-clamp and that’s it now. We’Re getting into the bulk of the removal process, which is getting our lower intake, manifold and upper out of here. There’S a few things connected to it.

 

To note we have our crankcase ventilation ducting here, both our oil engine, oil and transmission, fluid dipstick tubes are connected back here. We’Re gon na save the bolt that bolts those to the manifold there on the back. Also, we have our map sensor up here and some of its harness over off to the side. We just need to unclip that so I’m gon na get started on loosening the hardware you need to loosen on this. It’S quite a bit we’re going to fast forward.

Just to keep this video moving along. Now that I have my hardware that secures my upper manifold to the lower loosened, as well as a hardware that holds this lower manifold to the thermostat bridge, I’m just going to go ahead and pull it out. I actually prefer to pull the lower out from underneath the upper there’s, not really that much room between the cowl and the upper to get it out of here. So I’ll, just lift it up and pull this guy up and out of there. Sometimes this rubber coupler can be a little stiff, and so that – and you want to make sure you have your clamp, really loose, because it’s a pretty good-sized lip on the turbo itself.

 

Also, these hoses right here can kind of constrict you from going up there. You go that guy out, so there’s your lower all right! Now I got to lower out I’m gon na pull the upper again since all that hardware hangs low, it can make a little tough we’re gon na pull the driver side, part of it out. First kind of twist it out like that and see all that hardware kind of hangs down and can kind of catch on stuff. So just take your time with it now, where you can start prepping all the components that are going to go on the truck.

 

We’Ll start with a cold air first, we’re going to take our MAF sensor out, which you can see, has some Torx screws or t 20s we’re not going to reuse those screws, because they’re actually a screw thread for the plastic and also like I mentioned earlier. Our intake has provisions for the factory filter minor, so we’re just gon na pull that out gently. So we have the filter minder and then we actually have to pull the grommet itself out we’re gon na go ahead. I like to use silicone spray on a lot of the rubber / silicone type O rings connection stuff, like that that’ll help this guy go back in the hole and then we’ll do the same on our filter minder, so that guy’s ready now we’re gon na put Our mass airflow sensor in, if you look at your bolt pattern, it’s kind of a symmetric, and so you can’t put the mass airflow sensor in incorrectly. If you do the bolt holes won’t line up now, I’m just going to take our m4 button head bolts that are supplied in the kit go ahead and put those guys in just secure this guy.

Now I like to go ahead and work on the filter box. Lid after this, let’s move on to that now we can prep our air box lid, so this guy seals to the top of your air box, and so we supply the sticky back foam tape here to go around the bottom to help seal a little lid. I like to start the seam of the tape right here. This will be directly under where the two comes out of the air box, lid and you’re just going to go and run the outside line of your tape around flush with the outside of the air box. Lid pull your so you’re backing off, so you can see here we supply a little more than you need just to make life a little easier and just trim that guy that sits in there there you go and then now we can go ahead and give this Thing nice little press down thanks sure we get our adhesive really well, stuck to that.

 

Now that guy’s ready, I like to pre, assemble the intake, lid and tube kind of together. The way you do that is you put on your bushing here that kind of cushions a tube and seals it to the lid. Basically, gon na push this thing on, so your shoulder is back here and the other end just ends up just flush there, and so you can see the orientation I have here. The tube is kind of relaxed on the table. The mass airflow sensor is kind of there on the bottom.

 

I’M going to take our lid, we’re going to flip it upside down, and then this edge here is going to be parallel to the table. This will still be able to move, but that gets it in the basic orientation it’ll end up in the truck. Then we’re going to take our air filter loosen our clamp a little bit. You can set this guy up just so where you can get to the clamp from the underside here, so we’re just gon na push that filter all the way on it’s going to basically sandwich your airbox between the shoulder on that bushing and the end of the Air filter now I always rotate my metal seam of the filter down towards the bottom, and you come in here: okay, that guy’s, nice and tight. You can still have it just a little bit of adjustment of the airbox lid.

So it’s no big deal once you get it in the truck. You can adjust your orientation a little bit if you need to that. Guy is all set up now. Now, let’s move on to our hot side charge tube, you may have noticed already. I’Ve always make a nice little bit of bubble, wrap underneath the parts it makes it really easy to work on and not worry about scratching them.

 

This all came around the products that came you know in the kit. So it’s really nice in community thing to have all you really need to do is put this overhang in I’m just going to insert it in the Machine groove inside the adapter on this end make sure it’s seated in there nicely, and then this fitting uses the Same c-clip that came in the factory charge tube. So we seem to pop this little piece of plastic off right here to free that clip up that this guy come out of here, and this guy is going to kind of be and, like disorientation, so put a little saddle of the clip on that one right. There and then, when we go to install this thing, I’ll just push right over the charger, and the Charter will expand this a little bit and it’ll fall right into the groove. That’S on the Charter that retains it now, moving on to our cold side charge tube.

 

First things: first, we got to pull out our intake air temperature sensor. It twists out there’s a little bit of a ramp on the other side of this tab that keeps it from twisting out on its own. So you just got to lift that up a little bit and twist it to the left, see that little little ramp in there, my guy right there keeps that tab from twisting. So we’re done with this guy now this charge tube. If you’re, looking at your engine, you’re staying where I’m at this guy’s going to kind of sit in this orientation, so I prefer to have this section of the tab facing up so we’re going to put our sensor in silicon spray, where it’s that helps a lot With your o-rings, your couplers, all that stuff helps give it that little bit of Lube to get in there and compress the o-ring.

You can see this little hold down slides over the sensor and over that section of the tab. You can also use it to kind of rotate your sensor into the correct orientation that it goes now. You have our bracket lined up with the hole we can go ahead and thread in our m5 bolt get that guy snug down. As I mentioned earlier, our cold side charge tube comes with auxiliary eighth inch NPT ports. This customer doesn’t have a use for them at this moment, so we’re just going to put in the supplied plugs that come in the kit just a little bit of teflon paste to help them seal to prep our intake manifold.

 

We need to pull the map sensor off the factory upper manifold, we’re going to go ahead and put that in here. I’M going to use the supplied and fly bolt hold that in place and then go ahead and insert our earrings and the o-ring grooves. Also, when I go to set this thing in place, I like to go ahead and put our flange hardware in the back bolt holes. So there’s two on the backside of each flange I’ll just set them in there. You just have to be careful as you’re holding this thing over the engine, that you don’t bump those really hard and they fall off, but so far it’s worked out really well, you just set them in there and they’ll stay in place and just reach back there And throw them in we’re gon na set up our crankcase ventilation, reroute real quick!

 

You can see the old ducting here. It’S got that quick release coupler there and then I’ve already started routing my hose down the back of the engine. I like to go between the two hard supplying and return fuel lines there and then go back there once I get it all set up and I’ll do some zip ties to secure it again. A little silicone spray run some in the hose help. This adapter go in easy.

You don’t need any type of hose clamp here. There’S really no pressure on this thing at all. Then we’re gon na. Let this guy do the curve around go ahead and clip it on like that. That guy go down the back side of the engine, then I’ll go down.

 

They’Ll. Add a couple: zip ties just to secure that hose. You just want to keep it off anything. This movie, like we, have the steering shaft over here and then, luckily anything that’s hot is pretty much exists from here over. So you have a pretty good swath hose to go down the back and be away for anything that could damage it.

 

We undeviating our pasts assembly methods and do our intake manifold first, instead of doing the cold air first, I like to do it because you have the most access to these flange bolts everywhere, like I showed you before, I like to put the bolts in on the Back flange holes, that’s something you do at your own risk, but I like to do it because more convenient as long as you don’t hit the manifold really hard. They don’t fall out now we’re just going to throw these guys in so that we know they’re. At least threaded in some degree now I’ll put the rest in and tighten this guy down, you’ll notice, you’ll notice that we supply stainless washers with all of our hardware and that just keeps your powder coated surfaces looking really nice. So you want to make sure you add those in. I got this guy’s snugged, I’m gon na go around it.

 

Torque them, and then right back here I pointed out earlier, is where dipsticks gon na mount once I have all that. Other hardware, torqued I’ll, add that bolt in and torque it, but right now it’s nice to move these dipstick tubes out of the way to get to the flange hardware. And then you also want to make sure that you plug in your map sensor. Once your flange hardware is torque down now we have our intake manifold set in and I’ll torque down. You just want to make sure that you get your map sensor plugged back, in which I have already.

 

I had the harness routed underneath the manifold sitting up like this will at a later date, if you do compounds clear up that area for our intermediate i’ p to come through here and not heat up that sensor at all. Also, our dipstick tubes are bolted down. You also want to just make sure that this guy here is not touching the front of the manifold or the fuel filter housing. Here now we can resume basically following the flow path of air for our install, so go ahead and place our heavy-duty silicone coupler here on the front of the charger, just push that guy all the way on and we’ll go ahead and set our two clamps on There, the one that’s going to clamp this coupler to the charger Inlet can be tightened right now, if I can’t really be any adjustment here on this coupler, so this is a straight one. These little wallow drive extensions work really nice for stuff, like this highly recommend them.

 

So now I can just go: get the cold cold air assembly that we did on the bench and just kind of sit it on there. So I got my whole assembly. We did on the bench here so I’ll slip. It underneath this blunt line here all the way into that coupler and sit our lid there and align it with the top of the box. Do our snacks, I’m pretty particular about my clamps.

I really like I’m wind up in the hex and all facing the same way same position guys in there and now all you got to do is plug in our mouse sensor, make sure to clip in your little red, lock there that wraps it up for that. Next, up on our flow path is a hot side charge tube we’ve already done our oring and c-clip install previously, I’m gon na put a little silicone spray on that or ring to help it slide on nice and easy. Also, I highly recommend using silicone spray and all your coupler connections, the couplers we supply are really heavy-duty and they’re pretty strong, so you can definitely use a little lubrication to help them to position good, there’s really no detriment to this stuff. I’Ve found it not to affect the couplers holding at all. I’M gon na go ahead and slide that guy on so there’s about an inch hanging off and then we can go ahead and position.

 

Our clamps, I’m gon na, have them oriented on this side so that they’re real easy to get to. So we can just go ahead and put the one for the tube on that and then the other one we’ll go ahead and place it on the intercooler. Now we’re just gon na feed this guy on the Charter and you see how that clip, expanded and then dropped back in, and you heard that telltale snap. That means it’s on there. You can give it a good yank, make sure it’s all nice and seated now we can go back over here and just slide our coupler off the charge tube onto the intercooler and get our clamp kind of started rotated back up here, all right so that guy’s Seated, all the way onto the intercooler.

 

Now we can just position our clamps and tighten them down. So our last charge tube is going to be the cold side which is going to route up through here to the intake manifold, so we’ll go ahead and place. Our couplers I like to have the clamps of the manifold connection: have the t-bolt side facing over towards the passenger side and underneath kind of hides them so I’ll slide that one on again more silicone spray, silicone spray for the wind today, I’m just push that guy. Pretty much all the way on like that. Also these hoses here are going to be kind of in our way.

 

So we’ll pull this body clip to give us some more flexibility to feed that charge you bin, we do have a really cool coolant, reroute kit that reroutes all this stuff, the much cleaner manner. So it’s not laying on top of all your nice new charge, tubes anymore, so go check that out, so our cold side charge tube. We have already the only thing we need to do or what I prefer to do is position the coupler that goes on the intercooler ahead of time. You’Ll see it has a little bit shorter leg on one side a little bit longer on the other. The longer leg is going to go on the charge too.

 

So we’ll use some more silicon spray here to help us get that guy, nice and adjusted. So I like to hold my charge tube kind of an orientation above the motor that it’s going to go I’ll, get that Inlet kind of or outlet lined up with the inlet of the manifold and then we’ll get this side kind of pointing directly 90 degrees. Like your line of travel and so that I’ll get a thing positioned, really close to where it needs to be also I’ll, go ahead and place, my clamp for the intercooler outlet in place. I like to have it generally like this orientation. What is done so I’ll feed this guy in on the backside like this okay?

 

So I have that sitting on the intercooler. Now I want to go ahead and line this up here is that coupler in place? You can go ahead and place these clamps on this tube. If you want, I prefer not to have them sitting there rubbing around on the powder coat, so I’ll go ahead and place them afterwards, and then this guy, I actually prefer to have a kind in this orientation. It’Ll have the t-bolt facing backwards.

There’S a good a gap of room back there to have your hand back there and tighten it with a wrench okay. So I have all my clamps kind of in place, my couplers kind of in place, I’m just going to make you know minor adjustments to check my clearances everywhere everything aligned and tighten everything that intercooler outlet clamp. You can get to the setup like this really easy and then the other two over there real easy this one back here. I use a short stubby ratchet that I’ll show you in a minute I’ll get this guy placed make sure I’m happy with kind of the overall position of the tube, I’m pretty happy right there. There we go so now.

 

I know I can tell both my beads are seated in this hump really nicely everything’s aligned really well, and this guy here is a really nice little combo for each of that, one down on the charge to you, you can tighten these clamps, really tight they’ll. Take it our charge dudes will handle it. Everything we make like I said before, is designed to be able to be run in a compound system, so you don’t have to worry about over tightening the clamps on this stuff. If you have a truck that makes a lot of boost, you know snap in our little hose retainer there make sure we get our intake temp sensor plugged back in, and then you can do some work on this type of stuff get it snapped back in and Clean that up in that area, we’ll probably go ahead and do our country route on this after this. But I’m gon na go back over all of our clamps on this type of stuff, make sure everything’s adjusted correctly and make sure all my clamps are good and tight.

 

Now, to put the icing on the cake, we’re gon na install our tinted Plexiglas window just seemed to slide on your c-clip nuts first onto the holes here on the lid. Also, if you’ve noticed my believe, it’s Princess Jasmine band-aid. I stole for my daughter stash, give me a like yeah. All those guys are in and then also I pre placed the little rubber grommets that come with all the hardware for the window, set that guy there and make sure these guys are seated down in all the way. You don’t really need to crank these things down.

You just want to compress those rubber grommets about a full turn, or so that’s it. That’S a wrap for this install everything is good and tight. I can’t say it enough. I like to go over my clamps like ten times just maybe some OCD I’ve developed over the years. I would definitely go over everything all your hardware again make sure all your tools are out of the engine bay and whatnot, I’m going to throw one of the stickers on that’s always come with all of our kits.

 

I like them kind of like right about here, and especially once you do the coolant reroute I was talking about in these hoses, get out of the way it’s a great placement for the logo. That’S it I’m done with this guy. I can’t say how excited I always am at the end of these things. This setup makes this truck run so much better. It makes for way happier healthier truck if you have any questions about what we did there’s a lot of information on our site.

 

If you can’t find it there we’re here, for you give us a call shoot us an email and thanks for watching.