Watch Before You Buy a 6.7 Powerstroke

Today, I want to talk a little bit about some things you should know before you buy a 6.7 powerstroke my trucks in 2011, I’ve run into a bunch of the early 2011 issues fixed all of them, and I have a little bit of Experience the hard way on some things to avoid on certain year model 6.7 powerstroke. So I just want to share that information with you. I mean if you have any questions and I’ll do the best to get an answer.

 

Well, let me go ahead and start with the first thing I ran into with this truck. I first bought this truck in 2015, so I was like four years old at sixty-five thousand miles on it and I believe I have some clips of what look like when I first got it, and then I drove it stock for a little bit And then quickly deleted it and put a 5-inch Flo Pro exhaust minimax tuner and just a delete kit from Rudy’s Diesel, then, once that was done, I started to run into a couple issues here and there, some of Them related or not to deleting it first off was, might be hard to see. Now. That’S why I get up here. Man, one hand, I’m proud of myself.

 

Alright, so the wastegate vacuum hoses started buzzing. Let’S see, I think it’s gon na be hard to find these, because I don’t have any near as much stuff as I had on a stock truck since this thing has been deleted. All right. Let’S see man yeah, I don’t even I don’t think I have one anymore, some of y’all know. This is a 2016 inch and I put in this truck when I first got my 2011.

 

He was making this buzzing noise after shutdown, and I don’t know if I have video of that, but basically I turned Chuck off walk away and there we go and it was super annoying I found out it was my like vacuum. Hannes hold my waist gate for my 2011 turbo. I ended up replacing them and they ran somewhere in here. But all this was plastic and I think I’ve got maybe a picture of what, if like stock butt. A lot different in here now fix that then being deleted drove the thing.

I was making more power and I blew the intercooler pipe off immediately, which was plastic here, and you can see this Maryland performance. Diesel kit is all metal and hoses and band clamps. A lot stronger than the plastic junk that came on here. I’Ve got a picture of that. The first thing I did so did that intercooler pipe swap to a metal one from H and s and that went to the stock manifold there.

 

But shortly after that, I ended up blowing up the engine, so once I got a 2011 truck raining a couple little things here and there blew off intercooler pipe some annoying noises things like that. I was hot riding the thing around, even though I knew there was some issues. So let me talk about those issues, the 2011 trucks. When I first came out, I was the first new six point: seven new body style had just come out. They were made like in 2010 and those early trucks had some internal issues now, there’s some debate, whether it’s the glow plugs or the exhaust valves or both, but either way I lost the go plug and on the exhaust valve into my engine, or maybe one of The other they might have you know, caused a chain reaction, but at wide open throttle my engine self-destructed.

Basically, and then it was loping, and I had a code on my tuner. That said, like one of the glow plugs, it told me like which numbered glow plug. So I ain’t knowing that there was glow plug issues I was like well, I just blew my engine up and I took it to a Ford dealership just to confirm that I had you know: grenaded the engine or whatever one of the cylinders was completely like full Of metal and like welded shut and not moving anymore, and I was making the thing run super rough. They quoted me right off the bat it was gon na, be like 13 grand for new motor, and I was like ok, it’s out of warranty. That’S actually not too bad of a price from Ford.

 

I could probably probably swing that. Then they realized that they missed 10 grand somewhere in their calculation. So actually it was 13 grand for the motor and they want a 10 grand for me for them to install it. And I didn’t take me long to figure out that between them having to go. Ask people here and there, like they just didn’t, know what they were talking about, so I carried it up to Power, Stroke, performance and repair in Chesapeake Virginia by the time I was in Elizabeth City North Carolina, so I strapped this sucker on a trailer we bought From my buddy’s neighbor that he hauled his Toyota Supra around on or whatever it was like a little Nissan and completely maxed out the trailer, and we pulled it with a ram 1500 on nine-inch lifts and 37 stock gears, and we looked pretty ridiculous going on the Road, this was like 50 pounds of crap in a five-pound bag.

On that trailer, it was hanging off both sides . I wasn’t about to spend any more money than I had to to get it fixed because I already knew I was in thousands of dollars on this repair. So I go up there and Joe at power. Stroke performance had a complete 2016 engine out of another truck sitting there on a crate or on a pallet everything attached to accessories, and we started talking about my options. I could have done a long block or I think maybe a bottom in.

 

I can’t remember either way one only like part of the engine was full of metal and or at least actually damaged like you could have cleaned it out and used the other half of it, so that would have been a little cheaper. But for like a couple thousand dollars, I could have got a complete 2016 engine, so I went that route now. Some other problems with these early trucks is the turbos. So if your engine makes it past the glow plugs or if you replace the glow plugs, you may be all fine and happy there on on at 11, maybe 2012 truck, but up until like 13, the turbos were pretty bad. They were a little too complicated for their own good, they’re, very small, and it’s like the dual geometry.

I can’t remember what they called it exactly, but has two little blades in it and they just were wearing out. So when I put this 2015 engine in it, I opted to go for an aftermarket engine. Excuse me an aftermarket turbo, which you can see right in there, that black 64 and a half millimeter BorgWarner. So it’s a totally non VGT turbo, which means it doesn’t have any electrical inputs really to make it move. It’S totally powered by your exhaust, whereas the stock turbos on these trucks a little bit high-tech.

 

When you give throttle input, it knows like where you are your rpm range and it kind of adjusts to give you the most power instantly, which is pretty cool there. Pretty fancy turbos and they have like very little lag and pretty awesome. But having had all the issues pretty much that you could have with this truck already, I wanted the most like simple, reliable turbo, and that’s why I went for the aftermarket non v GT, but back to the different years here, the 11 to 12 had some issues With their turbos 1314 or a little better, but actually in 15 and 20 16 models in this body style truck, they had different turbos and I think it was like a 61 millimeter inlet words. This is 64 and a half not a huge difference, but you can definitely feel the power on this thing. But this isn’t a crazy like giant turbo, but those turbos have proven to be better on the 1516.

They have more power factory and they have better internals, which is why I opted to spend the extra money and put a 16 engine in here so far as the energy goes, you kind of want to stay away from the 2011 s. Now, if you find one like like mine, that has had the engine replaced, there’s nothing wrong with the 2011 truck. It’S just engine had some bad parts in it, so 2015 2016 engine is definitely where you want to stick on. This buy style now with the Illuma duties 17 on up now to the 2020s, I haven’t heard anything bad about the 17 s, but again I’m a little skeptical as far as the whole truck with getting the first year of something that just came out like I Did with this one – and I knew it was risky getting this 2011 they had just come out, they had just you know, made 6.4 is up until then in 2010, but I bought it anyway.

 

It was a good deal and you know I figured I could fix it, and I just was. I was like I couldn’t believe it. It’S a King Ranch fully loaded low miles like just such a nice truck. I just couldn’t. Imagine it doing me wrong and blowing up so I procrastinated on addressing the issues and I had to pay a price thousands of dollars.

I think I ended up paying like 17 grand putting that new motor in and the turbo and that’s what joe hooking me up. Pretty well because of my situation and it was waiting for these wheels and tires and lift and everything to get put on. So I had the lift kit. It’S an 800 BDS sitting at 10 inches. I had the 24 by 14 motor mount forged wheels.

 

Forty or 1550 trail grapplers, I even had the amp steps gift covers from AFE, had all that sitting at the shop and Wilmington North Carolina waiting for me to get there and put it all on. When I blew the truck up and I had to keep the truck put the money into it and make it into what it is now, I’m happy that I did but could have been. I could have saved a little money in the long run. Had I gotten just a newer truck, they didn’t have the issues and hardly had the motor that I wanted in it. But you know you live and you learn, I’m not.

You know upside down on this thing really for how much I’ve got into it. I don’t know much on it and I’m very happy with it. So you know you can get these older trucks if you get them for the right price. You just can’t ignore the issues they have. There’S also some concern at the fuel system.

 

Poor quality fuel can mess up your fuel pump and just send debris all through your fuel system and that cost about as much as a motor from what I’ve heard. It’S like 10 12 grand. It’S pretty ridiculous to do the fuel system on here, and I actually know someone a co-worker of my brother, let their daughter or something drive their truck and she put gasoline in there six point: seven diesel and ruin the fuel system and spent 12 grand right there On that – and I don’t even know what that one’s under warranty either so there’s a lot of things to look at with these newer trucks and there’s so much technology involved with the emission system, the EGR, the DPF everything and as you’ve, seen from the little clips. How quickly I removed all that, so I removed on this 2016 engine as well. I’Ve got the No Limit fab EGR delete, there’s a better shot at the turbo as well.

 

So no more EGR on here we’ve got the full 5-inch floor pro just like I had when I had the 2011 on the 8 inch tip, but I’ve been super happy with this setup. This delete kit. I’Ve also got a crankcase vent kit. Let me I’ll show you that as well, so what that does is the pressure that builds up inside the engine typically didn’t really have nowhere to go. So while I was at it, I had I had Joe put in this crankcase vent kit, and you can see right back here.

 

There’S this big spacer with a hose coming out and going down to the frame I’ll show you where that goes. That comes out! You follow the oil slick comes out right about here inside of the frame rail somewhere right next to my frame mounted fuel filter, so that will just vent the pressure overboard and you get a little smoke from that you can’t get a catch. Can that will trap all that smoke, so you don’t look like you’re just having an exhaust leak or something, but I don’t mind it just kind of going overboard and letting it letting it go and not dealing with it plus. My friend will never rust right there because it’s got constant lubrication from oil.

Let’S see what else we have, we might want to cover for this. Oh, the transmission, all right so 2011, after having pretty strong transmissions. Now that may be because of the less power in the earlier trucks. I think it was about 400 horsepower from the factory in 2011. I think you had a little less at first, but they bumped it up some, but then the 15 16s you’re, looking at closer to like 450 plus just from the bigger turbo and the way they tuned it and that may have caused more issues with the transmissions.

 

Later, but from what I understand, the Elevens had really strong transmissions or the earlier ones for whatever reason. Well, there was some little issues and I first heard about it. When I picked out this lift, I went through Carter read from BTS and he drives the 2011 black 6.7. That BDS put their first like coilover four-link hit on for this truck to kind of showcase it and take it out to Moab and everything and try it out.

 

So he ended up buying that truck from BDS and we had met and talked about what I wanted to do and Paul on the run 40s and stretch it up to ten inches. You know I’ve got this cranked up a little bit and I’ve got videos about all that, but he was like hey if you had any solenoid issues with your turbo, yet I mean your transmission while turbo transmission same thing. You know turbo 400. There you go, but he was like. Do you have any issues with your solenoids?

 

Yet because I just experienced this weird thing with our truck where it uh it wasn’t going into third gear would like get lost and I was like no, I haven’t had any problems yet so once I put the 2016 engine in here, I went to PPE. I Tunes the new turbo and everything, but it still has the 2011 transmission and I was super stoked with it no issues at first, but after driving it for maybe nine months. I started to experience that weird shift flare where it would go first, second and then like had some weird neutral in between second and third, I didn’t know where to go, and then it would shift back into first and eventually find its way up to. Third definitely thought I had major issues, but I remember Carter mentioned that to me. I reached out to him and I was like well how’d.

You fix that. He said I just dumped all the fluid. You know got the filter down and a little pan that covers it up and changed the solenoids out. I think there’s seven of them in there I talked to him asked who he got them from. I ended up replacing mine and that didn’t fix my problem.

 

At first now, with this solenoid, you have to make sure you have the right, color and serial number for each one, they’re all different, different part numbers, and if you get the exact same ones supposed to not need any tuning, it should work. But mine did not. Mine was still having the issue. I thought. Maybe I had a fluid level problem, so I kept adjusting how much trans fluid was in it still nothing.

 

So I reached out to P Pei and I said: look I’ve got your tuning. My transmission is not happy. I have a 2016 engine when the 2011 transmission, what you think’s going on and they said. Oh, let’s send you a stock transmission tune because sometimes they just don’t like the tunes on them, so they sent me a tune over email. I downloaded it to my iPad from their email walked out of my truck connected to the EZ link, Wi-Fi and then you know, hit update and fix my truck with a email.

 

I couldn’t believe it. I needed those solenoids, but in the end it was the tune that fixed it and I think that’s pretty awesome. I will say I’m having a deleted truck and the ability to have tuning like that. Like honestly, you have this once you buy that that tuner from PPI you have that support from them, and I just think that was incredible asset to have to be able to figure that out on my own and not pay for dealership to to reflash the transmission, Because they didn’t charge me anything to retune the transmission that came with the fact that I already bought the tuner, and I just think that was really awesome and some of y’all may not know. Obviously, this truck is not meant to ride on the highway, with the with no EGR and no muffler or DPF, or anything like that or no diesel exhaust fluid.

This is offroad. You sell only set up. Well, that’s not even legal off-road anymore. Please check out my EPA videos about the diesel truck tuning and exhaust and how they’ve made that illegal all across the board. You can’t even do it for race truck application very fired up about it, because it affects me directly, whereas this truck was something that was you know, offered use only now.

 

If I were to do this over again with another truck, I could not buy these parts that I have. I can’t buy this PPI tuner with straight pipe Tunes. You know deleted tunes. It has to be apply it now. So this truck right here you can’t even go and buy everything I have on it right now.

 

It’S illegal! So please check out that I have a link in that video and my most recent one about how you can put in your address email and it will email your representatives for your state me being a North Carolina resident. It was Tom Tillis who he’s actually already working on fixing the EPA regulations with the RPM Act. I don’t get too involved with that with this video, because I have videos about it. But if you like, deleted Diesel’s check out my videos, they’re kind of going away, it’s not gon na be something you can do anymore.

 

If we don’t say something about it and we don’t push legally that our representatives push back against the EPA, so that’s my little rant about that. Let me know if you have any other questions about this truck. In conclusion, I will say: drove on a 6-7 diesel. If you can get a 15 or 16, that’s probably your best bet. If you can get a 13 or 14, make sure it’s cheaper if you get an 11 or 12 be ready to put aftermarket turbo on it.

If it doesn’t already have one make sure your place, the glow plugs, especially in 11, and just be easy on it. If you just need the truck to do what a truck does and not have 40s on it, and you know, do burnouts and donuts and haul a heavy load, you should be fine with the earlier trucks. Just take care of them. Keep up with your maintenance, but the newer trucks I haven’t heard as many problems with should be alright. Now I know that new body style having everything different new lights things here and there like nothing, is the same.

 

You may have some issues there, but as far as the power plant, it being the same shouldn’t have too much issues just stay away from the earlier stuff anytime. Something comes out new, that’s what I’d recommend having bought the first year model of a 67. I know that next time around I’m gon na get I’m gon na wait a couple years and let something be refined. I let them figure out. You know the things because you can do all the testing in the world, but you can’t quite replicate like 1,000 miles of towing, daily driving or whatever in like a dyno in an enclosed area or whatever they do with the hot/cold cycles.

 

It’S just you’re not going to be able to do the real-world testing until they’ve been tested in the real world on thousands of trucks, for you know all across the country. So that’s my two cents about what truck you should get if you’re getting a six seven diesel, please let me know if you have any questions subscribe and turn on notifications. I got lots of content coming your way and if you haven’t already checked out my grandpa holics Instagram, please do if you like. Nitto tires thanks So much.