Hi I’m going to show you how to fully delete a Ford 3 L Power Stroke. This is a 2019 F-150 and I believe they made them from 2018 to 2020. Super quick disclaimer, I make these videos for anyone in the world to watch. In a lot of places, they don’t care if you delete your truck, but in some places it’s illegal. So, before you do this, first look up your local laws and stay in accordance with them.
If this is illegal where you live, I don’t recommend you do it. So, this is the delete kit here. It comes from a company called the MINIMAXXTUNER.COM.

Comes with an easy link auto agent. It’s got blocker plates for your EGR system here.
And then this is a new exhaust that will replace the section of exhaust we remove out of this truck. I strongly recommend the MINIMAXXTUNER.COM. I work directly with them to ensure that they’re selling a quality product. There’s a lot of other cheap Chinese kind of delete sites. I get messages all the time from people that ordered from them that have nothing but problems.
So again, I recommend the MINIMAXXTUNER.COM and this video is catered specifically to their kit. So step one, we always tune the truck first. So we’re going to tune it with Easy Link and I’m going to show you how to do that.

So, grab your EasyLink Auto Agent, and you should have already filled out a form with your VIN number and any modifications you have. The tune should already be on here, ready to go.
And I always recommend you put a battery charger on your truck for the tuning process. Anywhere from like a 5 amp to a 15 amp setting is best. I have this one set to 10 amps right now. You can grab your EasyLink auto agent and find the OBD plug.

It’s right under the dash right there.
It should light up like that. Grab your phone, download the EasyLink Auto Agent app and make an account. Then I’m going to screen record my phone and just voice over the process for you guys. You can follow along with me. So, first thing you want to go to your Wi-Fi and you want to connect to the EasyLink Wi-Fi on your phone.
Just like that. Then turn the truck to the run position and then hit the auto agent app. Let it connect here. If it says a firmware update is available, do the firmware first. Just it helps out a lot.
So, make sure the key is on. Hit continue. and then just follow the prompts and it’s going to do an update. It’s going to restart the auto agent now. All right, let’s go.
So, you’ll see it says the vehicle is set up to link with SAS tuning already. We’re just going to hit link. Uh you just hit continue.

You can just put delete in here. Doesn’t really matter.
And now we’re linked up. So, I like to do first is I like to go in the top left corner, hit those three little lines, and go to DTC. And this is just going to read your codes. This truck does have some codes here. see with the uh with the grill air shutter module.

So, I don’t think it’s going to be a problem. I’m just going to clear them first, though. Now, we’re going to hit the three little lines at the top left again, and we’re going to select vehicle. So, to tune it, we’re going to want to go to ECU profiles right there. And you’ll see there are five different power levels to choose from.
They go from 25 horsepower up to 120 horsepower. To download them, you just click the little cloud icon on the right side of the screen. And as you can see, I’ve already downloaded the 75 horsepower tune.

You can click on them, too, like this. and we’re going to hit install.
It’s going to say this will update the ECM. Hit proceed. I’m just going to hit retry. I’m not sure what happened there. Sometimes they glitch out like that.
And here we go. So, ignition off. Hit continue. Turn the ignition back to run. Hit continue.
And now just let the truck do its thing. It’s probably going to stay at 1% for a little while. That’s totally normal.

The screens might go black in the truck. That’s totally fine.
This will probably take about 10 minutes. You’ll hear the truck beeping at me. That’s totally normal. Just don’t mess with the truck at all. Leave everything as is and wait till it completes.
All right, we are almost done. 98% 99%. And there we go. So, it’s going to say turn the ignition off.

So, if you wait a minute like that, you’ll hear it chime.
Now you turn the ignition off. Hit continue. Now we’re going to turn the ignition back on. Hit continue. And now we should be all done tuning.
Hit let’s go. Boom. So if we go back, there’s a couple other things you can do. If you go down into functions, there’s some functions you can do, which is pretty cool. You can do this with EasyLink.
Pretty much everything. If we hit those three lines at the top again, you’ll see you can hit chat if you want. You can actually chat with the technician. If you’re having issues or you got a question, you can chat with them. But, uh, yeah, that’s pretty much it.

I’m going to exit the app and we’ll pick this video up with my other camera. Also, as of now, we do have his tunes, high idle tunes, rumble tunes, and more tunes are coming. All right, so I’m just going to turn the ignition off for right now. I’m going to remove the battery charger off the truck. We don’t need the charger anymore.
So, see if it fires up.

I did have a low deaf message on the dash before and now it’s totally gone, which is nice. It’s all looking good. We have throttle. Uh, I’m just going to hit the off button now.
Now, I always like to do another test just to make sure the tune worked properly before we start removing stuff off the truck. So, if you look at your engine, the EGR is down here on the side and uh, right here where this red tab is on this connector. I’m going to pop that back. And then I’m actually going to get my hand in there and unplug it. Just like that.
So, the EGR is unplugged. If you look down here underneath your air intake, there’s another connector. This is your throttle valve. It’s got another red tab. I’m going to unplug that as well.
See if you guys can get a better view of it. I’m going to need two hands, but I’ll unplug it. There. If you can see that, I have this connector unplugged now on the throttle valve. So, now we are just going to start the truck and make sure we don’t have any engine codes.

All right. Looks good to me. Give it a little rev. Everything seems happy. Oh, I do have an engine light.
So, I just want to check what that is. Now, remember, this truck already had an engine light for the shutters in front of the the grill or the radiator up there. So, I’m assuming that’s all it is, but I just want to double check before we start deleting the truck. So, again, I’m just going to use my phone to check with the Easy Link. If you get a lost communication code, that’s pretty normal.

Even this uh invalid data received from analog brake, that will happen sometimes when you tune these trucks. But yeah, right here I can see I have my active grill air shutters. So, I’m just going to clear those. I’m just going to start the truck a couple more times and uh make sure that only those two codes come back.

You basically just want to make sure that we don’t have a code for the EGR or the throttle valve because that’s what we just unplugged, right?
So, as long as they don’t have codes, then you know the tune’s successful. All right, engine light came back. Just going to quickly check it one more time. And yeah, we’re just getting those two codes there for the air shutters. So, uh we’re good to go.
Chances are you won’t have those codes because your truck probably doesn’t have that problem. But we are ready to delete this truck. So, I’m blessed to have a lift, so I have it up in the air.

If you’re doing this off the ground, that’s totally fine. Just uh if you can drive the truck up on some ramps, that helps out.
This is a classic farm truck. Like, look at all the mud underneath. That kind of sucks, but oh well. I’m assuming that we’re probably just going to join up to this factory muffler and only replace the front section of pipe, but I’m not 100% sure. So, I’m just going to lay out this exhaust first uh and just see what we’re dealing with.
So, here’s the exhaust that comes in the kit. Now, judging by the length, I think I am correct where it is going to bolt up to the factory muffler right here. If a guy wanted to straight pipe it, it’d be super easy for you to put a chunk of pipe in there or take it to a muffler shop, but we’re just going to install it as the kit says.

So, probably a good idea to soak that bolt down there with some pedra fluid. Any bolts on exhaust usually aren’t that fun.
There’s also three bolts here at this triangle flange. I’m going to just go ahead and uh spray the back side of those with pentrane fluid as well. And then coming up to the front, there’s these two nuts right there. And I got those soaked down as well. Now, we’re going to go ahead and unplug everything on the exhaust, all the sensors and that kind of stuff.
So, if we start at the back at this muffler, I can see there are two wires there and a third right here.

One of them is connected right here on top of the frame rail. And the other two, you can probably see better from this side. They’re gonna be this and that. Everything’s covered in mud.
So, I’m just going to take this car to the car wash quick and clean it off and then come back. All right, that’s better than it was. A lot of them have these stupid little kind of tabs you have to pry out with a pick like that. You can push on them. Sometimes you have to get underneath them with a pick.
They’re just so full of. I’m going to pop this cover off. This module’s got to go out with the exhaust anyways. There we go. With this one, you got to kind of pry this plastic cover off.
They’re just stupid in my opinion. So, you’re gonna just usually there. With the cover off, you can see you got to pop this white tab back. And you can’t pry that off.

And again, we’re going to pop this right off because this is going to go out with the exhaust.
Okay. I unplugged this guy. This guy, and then this one I actually just cut cuz I got pissed off. Here’s the other part of it. It has a stupid clip on the top of the frame up here.
We have to pry it off. It’s just kind of difficult to do up there. But this guy doesn’t want his old exhaust, so I’m like screwed. I’m just cutting it. So, now moving on up in the world here.
It looks like we have a connector on the top for your deaf injector and then your deaf injector itself. And there’s another sensor that this wire goes to. So, unplug those. For the deaf injector, this you pop the red tab back, then you can unplug it. And for the deaf injector itself, you just kind of pinch both tabs on each side and then you can pop it off.
This one right here was kind of difficult.

I put one hand up to press the tab and then I used the my other hand to pull the cable back or the wire back and it came out. Moving up again, our final canister up here. It’s hard to say or hard to show you, but it’s got two of these, one there and one kind of up there. It’s got that hose right there that you can just cut that hose or disconnect it.
And then it’s got this cable over on the frame rail, which again goes to the outside of the frame rail. And you have another one of those to disconnect.

You can cut them. You can cut them at the exhaust and kind of when the exhaust is out, then you can actually get rid of them. But if you ever want to reinstall your exhaust, you’re not going to want to cut them.
You’re going to want to make sure you disconnect them properly. So now once everything is unplugged, we are going to start at the back here at this muffler. And as you can see, I have a ratchet on here, and I’m just loosening this uh clamp. And what you’re going to want to do is you’re going to want to push this muffler back. So sometimes you need a chisel to just kind of open these up a bit.
If you hit this with a hammer, kind of spray these hangers with a lubricant. You should be able to slide this back.

Again, this guy doesn’t care about his exhaust. So honestly, I’m probably just going to use a sawzaw and just cut it right here. And I’ll just make the removal process easier.
And then I’ll probably use a hammer and I’ll beat this forward out of the muffler. Okay. As you can see, I made a cut right here. Now, what I’m going to do is I’m going to take these two bolts out for this hanger. I’m going to take these two nuts off and then these three bolts up here on this flange.
And I should just be able to pull this whole piece right out of the truck. On this hanger, you actually got to take the bolts up out of the top. Come on. A I got that piece out there. I’m just trying to get this piece out.
And as you can see, I’ve almost got it out, but the sensor is hitting the crossmember. But I can probably pry the muffler back and then it’ll have enough room to get this out.

There we go. Got the other little section out. So, now we have this front part here, which looks pretty simple.
I’ll pull those two nuts off, and then we’ll see if this thing comes out. I see there’s a hanger right here, which might be in our way. Might have to cut it or maybe unbolt it. I’m not sure. Once I have it loose, we’ll we’ll see what the deal is.
So, I have this clamp loose here, but these hangers are in my way. There’s actually two. One up top above this one. I don’t know how to unbolt it. I see two bolts here, but I believe this whole entire thing is the transmission mount, and it’s all connected together.

So, I think what I’m going to do is I’m literally just going to use a sawzaw and cut it right here. And then cut it up at the top. Just kind of just like that. And once I have this out, I’ll just pull these hangers out. Never mind.

Actually, you can pull this and drop it down like that. And then it gives you enough room to pull it forward. I did cut the bottom, but I never cut the top yet. So, they’re still all connected. But you can actually pull it forward enough if you bring it down to get it out.
kind of like that. But now, how does it get out? That is the question. H I think if you want to get this thing out in one piece without cutting it, you would have to support your transmission and then remove this transmission crossmember, and then it would come right out. But I don’t really care.
I’m just going to cut this one, honestly. All right, there we are. I got the front piece out. This is the back piece. Like, that is all of your emissions underneath the truck.

We got her out. Look at the cute little turbo right there. So tiny. Now what I like to do is tape up all these open connectors. You can see I did these ones on the outside.
There’s more of them, too. And now I’m just going to zip tie all the connectors, especially those ones hanging down there. Just going to zip tie them all out of the way. And then we can start installing the new exhaust. Now you can grab this front pipe and go ahead and mount it to the turbo.
And I believe you use the factory bolts. I don’t think there’s new ones. I’m going to put it up there.

There. And I’m not going to tighten it.
I’m just going to kind of hand tighten it with my fingers. See, we got her up, but we can still kind of move it around. You kind of want to line it up so it’s going straight backwards. Now, grab this rubber hanger that we previously removed, and we’re going to bolt it back up just like that. Spray it with some lubricant.
Then, you’re going to grab this pipe here with the hanger, and you are going to slide it over top of that front pipe and put this hanger in the rubber bushing. All right. As you can see, you don’t want to slide on all the way. You want to make sure that there’s room for the clamp to go on each side. But that’s what it looks like there.
Now, right now, it is hitting on the crossmember. So, when we actually do it, it’s going to be kind of lifted up like this, and we’ll have to tighten it up in that position.

But, I’m thinking that when we put this final pipe in, it’s going to naturally lift it up, and then we can tighten everything. But, uh, we’ll see, I guess. Now, slide this final piece.
Beveled end will go around the muffler. Uh, this piece slides in. Now, to get it in, I had to I had to lift it up like that. And then, as you can see, I had enough room to get it in.

And now, all I have to do is basically just hold it up into position.
And then, you can see my hangers here. I have the whole muffler and tail section slid back. So, I just have to kind of hold this up to match it. Then, I have to slide the muffler forward into it. Make sure that you’re in at least a couple inches on both sides of these, just we don’t have any exhaust leaks.
There we go. We slid her forward.

We got her all together. There. That was actually quite easy.
It’s still quite close to this crossmember. So, when I tighten this up, I’ll probably try to kind of twist this front pipe a little bit just to lift this up. Actually, I got it pretty decent there now. But yeah, you might have to twist some pipes around to kind of make sure you’re clearing the crossmember, clearing this heat shield, that kind of stuff. And what I would do is I’d probably start at the front.
I’d tighten these two bolts and then put your clamps on there, there, and there.

Here are clamps right here. You can disassemble them and then reassemble them over top of the joints. Notice they are stepped, so make sure you put them on the right way. And for this middle wedge piece, make sure you have that skinny side facing the pipe like it is right there.
All right, we got our clamps on. As you can see, we are above this crossmember. We’re not touching. So, that’s good. It was pretty close to this heat shield.

So, if I show you the other side, I did actually just kind of bend this heat shield back a little bit. Uh, no big deal at all. And we got her tight up at the front here. So, if you go give this a whack, like she is solid. So, start the truck up, go underneath, feel all the joints with your hands, make sure you don’t have any exhaust leaks.
You might have to reposition a clamp or tighten it up a little bit. But that should be it for the exhaust.

That was not too bad at all. There’s definitely a lot worse ones out there. So, now we’re going to work on removing the EGR.
Now, technically, you don’t have to remove the EGR if you don’t want to. You can just replace the exhaust like we did and then unplug those two sensors, the throttle valve and the EGR valve, and then drive your truck like that. I’ll show you those sensors again in a minute. But first, we are going to drain the coolant for the EGR delete. So, underneath the truck, here’s the front driver side tire.
If you look up here, where is it? Right kind of up there at the front. See that red plug? That is the drain for your coolant. So get a clean pail or something like that to catch the coolant.
We do want to reuse it, so make sure it’s clean.

I also sprayed up there with some brake clean and some compressed air just to clean up all the debris out of the way. Then just use a flathead screwdriver, loosen that uh coolant um plug, and then drain the coolant. I pulled this drain plug right out. Make sure you don’t lose that uh that ceiling washer on it.
And as you can see, it’s kind of running all the way down the frame. So coolant’s probably going to be pretty dirty. I’m probably just going to end up replacing it. If you pull this coolant reservoir cap off, it should drain a little bit faster. And again, the plugs we disconnected were this one right here on your throttle valve.
And back here, this EGR valve. As long as you unplug those, you should be able to just leave the EGR intact on the truck if you want, but we’re going to fully remove it on this one.

Disconnect the negative battery terminal and just kind of shove something underneath there so it’s not making connection. Then we’re going to remove this air intake pipe. There’s a clamp there, a clamp there.
You loosen up. It looks like we have to undo this connector and probably pop it out of it’s kind of mounted here. And then yeah, just pull that pipe out. There’s also two little bolts right there and one on the other side that kind of hold this pipe in place. I’d remove those as well.
Now pull this engine cover off just by popping it out of its places on each side. And just like that. Now you want to take this pipe off that kind of goes from the EGR cooler to the intake.

There’s two Torx bolts right there. There’s a little bracket right there.
There’s this sensor you’ll have to unplug. And then there’s two more Torx bolts down holding it together. Just like that. Now, get your EGR delete kit and you’re going to find this blocker plate. Make sure this O-ring is nice and seated in it.
You’re going to want to wipe this off and then put that blocker plate on there. And I’m just going to reuse the factory bolts that came out of it.

So, now I’m going to remove this whole air filter housing here. Uh there’s a plug to disconnect there. You got a bolt there.
There’s a couple clips to pry off. And then I think you got to pry off these two clips here and then you can remove it all at once just because then we’re going to be able to look down there and see the EGR cooler a bit better. Now we’re going to want to take this coolant line off. So just pinch the clamp, pull it back, maybe use a pick and just try to pry this hose off of the EGR cooler. All right, as you can see, we got this coolant line off.
Now we got to do some stuff over on the side of the EGR cooler towards the back. So what I actually did is I pulled the wheel off.

Now, if you pulled the wheel well, it’d probably be even easier, but I just kind of pulled this skirt off to the side. And uh it’s tough to see, but back here, like this is your EGR cooler. So, the first thing I see is these two lines.
Sorry for the bad camera angle, but but these are held on by a little bracket. I think you can probably use a tool and probably just pop it out. But the bracket behind it, it looks like there’s just one bolt right there. I’m going to pop this out of the bracket. There’s a little electrical line right there as well.
I’m going to pop those out. And then I’m going to remove that bracket to give us more room.

Here’s that little bracket. Now you can move these around a lot better, which is nice. So right here where my finger is pointing to, that’s a coolant line.
Right there where my finger is pointing to, that’s a 10 mm bolt. We’re going to remove that and then pop this coolant line. It’s behind these lines here. But that coolant line’s got to pop off that EGR cooler. It’s a really tight place.
I am trying my best to film it for you guys, but it is tricky. Once we get that EGR cooler out of the truck, I can show you a lot more on it. So, I got that bolt off of the EGR cooler, but I’m looking at this and there’s actually a second bolt.

If you follow this coolant line down, there’s actually another 10 mm bolt. Now, I actually have a socket on it with a bunch of extensions.
You kind of got to squeeze it in above that other pipe, and then that whole coolant line should be able to pop out of the block and out of the EGR cooler at once. Now, I’m actually using a pry bar just like that to pop that coolant line out of the EGR cooler. As you can see down there, it’s right here. Now, it’s out. All right.
So, now we got to unbolt some stuff on the back of the EGR cooler.

So, where this bracket is, there’ll be a bolt up on the top there. Maybe it’s a nut, but we have to remove that bracket. Now, kind of right where my finger is pointing to, that’s a little tube that goes from your exhaust manifold up into the EGR cooler. We’re going to take the the two I think they’re 10 mm bolts.
They go right in the back of the EGR cooler. We’re going to remove those as well. And if you just keep watching to the end of the video, it will make sense when we get this EGR cooler out. Again, it’s really hard for me to show this. Also, this oil dipstick, there’s some bolts at the back of the EGR cooler that are holding it to the EGR cooler.

We got to remove those. And right here, this is a vacuum line. So, you’re going to want to pop that vacuum line out. Once the stuff is disconnected at the back of the EGR cooler, there’s three bolts that hold it on to the engine. So, the first one’s right here.
It’s super easy to get at, but then there’s two more underneath it, kind of like right here and here. They’re they’re towards the front and we got to get those out as well. So, I’m going to work on that and kind of once I have it, you know, kind of loose and stuff, we can show you where all these bolts are.

All right. It was a bit of a struggle, but we got her out.
So, here is the EGR cooler. Now, what I did is I started at the back and undid everything from here. And then I undid these bolts. So, here’s a good look at it from the back. There’s a couple bolt holes here, uh, where some brackets are, and you have to take some nuts off first.

Then, you have to pull a black bracket off. And then you’ll see two bolts like this where the nuts you just removed were on and they have to come off too. Again, you have to make sure that you pop this coolant line out so you can get the EGR cooler out. Now, this bolt is super easy to get at. Uh, this one down here is also easy.
Those are both 13 mm. Now, this guy right here is smaller. I think it’s an 8, maybe a 10. I’m pretty sure it was an 8 mm bolt. That one was a pain in the ass to get.
What I had to do is this coolant line right here. I actually well I tried to remove this that bolt where it mounts.

I just broke the bolt, but then there’s two more bolts down there and I took all the bolts out. It’s still in place, but I was able to just kind of push it like that a little bit. And when you push it like that, it gives you just enough room to squeeze a quarterin extension in between these two lines and you can get it.
It is not super fun though. You might need a pry bar to kind of pry the steering shaft over a little bit just to get your ratchet in there. It’s a pain in the ass. Now, at the back over here, you’ll see that’s where we took those two bolts out of the back of the EGR cooler. That’s actually what feeds the EGR with its exhaust.
You can see these brackets. So, there’s a bolt there, bolt there, a bolt there for this um exhaust back pressure sensor. Remember this vacuum line here? I have that removed. I just used a screwdriver and pushed it off.
So, once I had all those out, I still couldn’t remove it. It was still stuck on.

And what I found was there’s this guy that goes right in there. I didn’t realize I had to pull that out, but once I pulled that out, this got a lot looser and I was able to wiggle it out. But yeah, that bolt down there, pain in the ass.
The rest, they’re inconvenient for sure, but you can get them. I think I got most of them just from the wheel well, just through this little gap in the inner fender. This is that coolant line that sticks into the side of the EGR cooler. It kind of goes like that. So, it kind of goes down to the block at that angle.
And uh I took both of those bolts out and I was able to pull really hard and pop it off.
Now you can get the EGR cooler out without pulling this hose completely out. Like you can actually just pop it out of the cooler, get the EGR cooler out, and then you can wiggle this out after. That’s fine. It leaked a bunch of coolant though when this uh when this line came out.
There’s just no way around that. So get ready for it. But if you see there, we still have that little elbow that we need to remove again from the top. That’s this elbow right there. So, it looks like there’s two 8 mm bolts on each side.
They don’t look easy, but they don’t look impossible. So, that’s what I’m going to be taking off now. All right, I got this little piece out. That’s the piece that goes right off the exhaust manifold. I was able to get it just with a long 1/4in extension.
These uh these swivel sockets have come in handy a lot this job.

Extensions and swivel sockets, they’re your friend. So now, if you see down there, we got to put a blocker plate there. So, I’m thinking we probably just reuse this gasket with the blocker plate. And I’m probably just going to reuse those bolts, too.
So, this is the blocker plate you need. And before you install it, just put it in a vise or something and just make sure this brass plug in the middle is tight. That would be for an exhaust gas temperature sensor if you ever wanted to put one in your truck. But once that’s tight, make sure you transfer this gasket over to it and install it. And as you can see, we got the blocker plate installed on the exhaust manifold.
So now this uh coolant pipe where this bottom piece when the bottom part went into the block. Oh, that’s going to be a pain in the ass, too. I don’t even know if I can show it, but uh there it’s kind of just above that pipe up to the right, that open hole.

You’re going to grab this kind of teardrop shaped plug. And maybe this is where we use one of these new bolts.
I don’t know. It doesn’t really matter what bolt you use, but this has to go in. It looks like there are still kind of rubber O-rings in that hole into the block. So, put a little lubricant on this, slide it in there, and then put the bolt through that hole. I’m probably just going to use the factory bolt.

It’ll be easier to tighten up a factory bolt than an Allen head. All right. As you can see back there, I did get that plug in. It was kind of a pain in the ass. I used a long 1/4in extension and an 8 mm socket.
The bolt that was originally in there, a magnet wouldn’t stick to it. So, I just used a different bolt that we removed during this process that a magnet would stick, and that’s how I got it started in the hole.

Now, this is the last piece of the EGR delete. I think we’re done all the hard stuff, but basically this coolant line that we removed earlier, you just plug it off just like that. And then just put this hose clamp back over top of it.
If you want, you could probably cut it a little shorter. Uh but yeah, that’s where that goes. Okay, plug is in. Next thing we’re going to do is this vacuum line that we undid. What we’re going to want to do is you’re going to want to fold it over itself like that and uh basically kink it.
Uh, so kink it and then put a couple zip ties on it there.

Just like that. I don’t know if you guys can see that, but I just, uh, folded it over, kinkedked it, and put a couple zip ties on it. So, now we’re basically just putting it back together. If you loosened this coolant line like I did, I’m going to go put the I believe there was two or three bolts back in.
This one, like I said before, that one just snapped. So, that one’s not going back in. But, just secure this hose back up. So, now I’m just looking at what I’m going to do here. We have these fuel lines are kind of loose.
a little bit loose for my liking. This dipstick is actually it’s pretty stiff, so I’m not too worried. But I think what I’m going to do is the bottom bolt hole on this bracket right here for the fuel lines.

I think I’m going to try to lift it up and there’s a little heat shield right there. And I’m going to try to put a bolt through the heat shield, through this fuel line bracket, and it’s going to come out right here on the dipstick bracket.
Okay, I actually did something way better. So, I put this bolt through that thin heat shield. I just put a bolt through there. And then I just grabbed two brand new bolts I had in my bolt bin at the shop, and I put a bolt and a nut through this bracket here. So, that’s the fuel line bracket.
And then the bottom of that bracket actually bolts right up to this exhaust back pressure sensor. So take a look. That’s what I did. And uh it’s much more sturdy now. So I’m happy with that.

And I was able to actually this wiring right there. I just pushed it right back in its clip right there. I zip tied this EGR plug to it. I zip tied this wire here to the fuel lines. I zip tied this connector right there.
So just double check everything. Make sure everything is zip tied out of the way. Make sure nothing is getting close to touching this steering shaft. Now I just put this little skirt back in the fender well.

If you took your whole fender well out, you can put that back in and put the tire back on.
Make sure you remember to torque the wheel. Torque it to like 135 ft-lb, something like that. Better yet, just check the owner’s manual. Now you can put your air filter housing back in and then put this pipe in that connects the two. Just like that.
Make sure you remember to plug this connector back in. I’m just going to toss the engine cover on. Now engine cover is on. I also connected my negative battery back up. So now I’m going to clean up my tools.
I’m going to go underneath the truck and reinstall the coolant drain plug. And then I’m going to top it up.

And I got new coolant for this truck because the coolant down there in my catch pail down there, it just got too dirty draining off the frame. Once she’s topped up with coolant, we’re going to start it. We’re going to check for leaks.
And then you’re going to test drive it. And you might have to top the coolant up. Once the truck gets up to temperature and the thermostat opens up, it might take a big gulp out of that reservoir and any air of the system will go away. Uh, but yeah, you might have to top it up after you drive it. All right, coolant is topped up.
Nothing is leaking under it yet, but going to fire this thing up. See how she is. Seems to be running okay. Beauty. So, again, go take it for a drive.
Check it for leaks. top up the coolant after if you have to. I will link this kit down in the description if you want to check out yourself.

I’m going to throw it on the dyno right now. So, that will be another video where we’re going to review this truck and see the horsepower gain.
But, if you found the video useful and you want to show a little more support, you can go to dark iririesel.com, get yourself some super sweet merch. But, that’s it for the video. So, thank you for watching and I hope to see you on another one soon. Fast lane when I pass in the street.
Lag of money in the passenger seat..